Bandhani sarees, also known as Bandhej sarees, are a vibrant and colourful representation of India's rich textile heritage. Originating from the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan, these sarees are known for their unique tie-dye technique that results in intricate patterns and a distinctive texture.
The word "bandhani" is derived from the Sanskrit word bandh, meaning - "to tie". It is a resist dyeing process where the fabric is pinched and tied with thread before it is dyed to create a pattern made of small dots. This is one of the most basic and oldest of all textile arts, and for centuries, different forms of tie-dye have been practised in many parts of the world, including India, Japan, China, Southeast Asia, and various African countries.
Three tools used for tying the fabric are - Dheri (strong cotton thread), Bhungali (glass pipe), and Naklo (thimble). These help create two types of dots - Aniwali Bheendi, the basic dot, and Mathawali Bheendi, which forms a fine ring. A single Bandhani dot is called Ek Dali or Bundi, four dots are called Chaubundi, and seven are called Satbundi. Small dots with darker centres are referred to as Boond, while tear-drop-shaped dots are known as Kodi.
The craft of making Bandhani sarees has been passed down through generations, with each piece reflecting the artisan's skill and creativity. The regions of Bhuj, Jamnagar, Kutch, and Saurashtra in Gujarat and Jaipur in Rajasthan are particularly renowned for their high-quality Bandhani work.
The technique involves dyeing a fabric that is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari, etc., depending on how the cloth is tied.
Bandhani sarees are typically made from lightweight fabrics like cotton, silk, or georgette, making them ideal for the hot and arid climates of their regions of origin. Bright and bold colours, such as red, yellow, green, and blue, are often used in its sarees and associated with celebration and joy, making Bandhani a popular choice for festivals, weddings, and other special occasions.