The saree is the most widely worn traditional attire for women in India, it involves wrapping the saree around the waist and pleating it before draping it over the shoulder, showcasing the decorative border and pallu.
| Andhra Pradesh | Uppada / Jamdani Saree, Ponduru Saree, Pochampally, Dharmavaram, Narayanpeta, Venkatagiri, Mangal Giri, Gadwal, Chirala, Madhavaram, Kanchi Cotton sarees |
| Jammu and Kashmir | Kani sarees |
| Maharashtra | Paithani |
| Odisha | Sambalpuri , Bomkai, Maniabandha, Passapalli, Barhampuri, Dolabedi, Kothpad, Khandua, Nabakothi |
| Punjab | Phulkari |
| Rajasthan | Rajasthan |
| Tamil Nadu | Kanchipuram, Pochampalli Silk Saree, Coimbatore Silk Sarees, Dharmavaram Silk Saree, Arani Silk Saree, Kumbakonam Silk Saree, Tenkasi Silk Saree, Chettinad Silk Saree. |
| Uttar Pradesh | Banarasi |
| West Bengal |
Baluchari, Batik, Cotton Tant Saree, Dhakai Jamdani ,Tussar Silk, Garad Sarees |
| Madhya Pradesh |
Chanderi, Maheshwari, Bagh print, Tussar |
SAREES FROM EAST INDIA
ODISHA
1. Sambalpuri: sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (ikat) sari (locally called "sambalpuri bandha" sadhi or saree) wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha, India.
Sambalpuri ikat migrated to Western Odisha with the Bhulia community, who fled Northern India after the fall of the Chouhan Empire at the hands of the Mughals in 1192 AD. Since then, this exquisite artistry has flourished in
The Ikat technique used in Sambalpuri sarees is known as “Baandha Ikat.” It involves tying and dyeing both the warp and weft yarns before weaving them, resulting in a visually striking outcome. The Baandha Ikat sarees feature bold, symmetrical patterns that are a testament to the weaver’s skill in maintaining consistency throughout the weaving process.
2. Bomkai: saree has been originated from a small picturesque village called
Bomkai in Ganjam district, 156 Km from Bhubaneswar in Odisha. Latter on it is introduced in Sonepur. Before 1950's the main product mix of this area was cotton sari and dhotis. The main occupation of “Bhulia” community was weaving.
A Bomkai saree features an array of traditional motifs like peacocks, elephants, flowers, lions, and deities. The most striking aspect is the broad embellished border with ornate temple designs.
Mythological tales come alive in the pallu through fine artistic thread work.
3. Maniabandha / Nuapatna: Historically the Nuapatna owes its origin and importance to Lord Jagannath Temple. A section of artisans in village calledbunakar (weaving community in Odisha) were allotted the work of temple as Sevakas (servants of the God) for weaving decorative cloths for Lord Jagannath (Lord of Universe), Devi Subhadra and Lord Balabhadra (Brother & Sister of Lord). Subsequently the decorative clothes were known all over as Khandua saree (Khandua Paata in Odisha).
4. Passapalli Sarees: Pasa refers to the ancient game of chess played since Mahabharat times where the dice rolling set on course the fate of the players. The checkerboard pattern is double ikat- meaning both warp and weft are tied and dyed before weaving.
5. Barhampuri Sarees: Textiles using the style of weaving found in Berhampuri
saris are said to have originated in the fourteenth century, under the patronage of the Mohuri kings of Odisha. Some scholars suggest that they were traded through the state's Gopalpur port to other countries connected by the Bay of Bengal. The Berhampuri silk saree is unique due to its typical Odissi style of weaving and kumbha, particularly phoda, temple type design. "The zari work border design is different from others. The weaving technique is said to have originated over 200 years ago.
Brahmapuri Patta saree is registered under the Geographical Indications (GI) of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act by Government of India. The "sari" meant for women and the "joda" meant for men. For this famous silk work, Brahmapur is also known as silk city of India.
6. Dolabedi: Dolabedi is a saree based on the Dola Utsav that was celebrated. This extraordinary hand-woven treasure speaks of the dolabedi, the Lords in Odisha's famed temples preparing for a stroll. This traditional handwoven saree features a pallu (aanchal) that resembles a swaying swing or a platform, creating a unique and eye-catching effect. The Dolabedi saree is known for its vibrant colors, intricate motifs, and exquisite craftsmanship.
Dolabedi is a beautiful jala and dobby technique saree, done in Nuapatna and Gopalpur weaving villages on tussar silk and in Sambalpur side these are made from high quality mulberry Bangalore silk. These sarees have captured imaginations of worldwide handloom saree lovers for their exquisite work. 'Dolabedi' is the raised platform with an arch located outside the outer compound wall of the main Temple, to which the deities Dolagobinda (Lord Jagannath's representative Deity), Bhudevi and Sreedevi are taken in a 'Dola Jatra' procession during festivitiy at Puri called 'Dola Purnima' or 'Holi'!
7. Khandua Paata: For weaving these sarees, 70% weavers are using fly shuttle frame looms and remaining 30% of weavers use pit looms. Weft yarns in bunches are tied in different places as per design and then dyed. Tying, untying and dyeing processes continue till all the colors are put on the yarn. This yarn is wound on to pirns and used in weft during weaving.
- Khandua sarees are distinguished and characterized by its design with fine lay out and harmony of colour schemes, which gives out rainbow brilliancy.
- Motifs like star temple conch, rudrakhya, fish, chakra, lotus, swan, peacock, parrot, deer, elephant, horse, lion, dance of devadasi, GitaGobinda on fabric, different types of scenery are generally woven.
- Border portion is warp tie and dyed where as Anchal (Pallu) is weft tie and dyed.
- Reflection on two-tone colour or shot effect due to use of separate colour in warp and weft yarn in noticed.
- Nabakothi The origin of Khandua (Nabakothi) traces back to 12th Century AD and it is closely associated with Lord Jagannath Temple rituals at Puri. These sarees are woven with wooden looms in the traditional style of hand weaving and the whole village of Nuapatna is devoted to this traditional form of weaving.
- The term `Nabakothi` literally translates to `nine grids` in the Odia language. These boxes characterized by different traditional motifs. The Odisha Handloom Ikat weave Nabakothi saree is known for its intricate designs and traditional motifs.
WEST BENGAL
1. Batik: Mulmul is a soft and fine weave of cotton which is also known as muslin. It is almost around 100 years ago when Bengali weavers first weaved it. Mulmul cotton fabric was one of the prized imports from India to the lands of England and Scotland.
Batik is a method of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth , originally from Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting, or by printing the resist with a copper stamp called a cap.
Often handed down within families for generations, the craft of batik is intertwined with the cultural identity of the Indonesian people and, through the symbolic meanings of its colours and designs, expresses their creativity and spirituality.
2.Baluchari: Sari is a type of sari, worn by women in the Indian state of West Bengal, Tripura and Assam and the country of Bangladesh. This particular type of sari originated in West Bengal and is known for depictions of mythological scenes on the anchal of the sari.
Baluchari saris illustrate Hindu mythological scenes, nature, folklore, legends, historical events, and abstract designs. They showcase gods, heroes, nature elements, love stories, battles, and contemporary patterns.
While there isn’t a lot of variation in the method of weaving used today, balucharis can be broadly categorized based on the threads used in weaving the patterns:
Baluchari (resham): The simplest balucharis have resham threads in a single colour to weave the entire pattern
Baluchari (meenakari): These balucharis have threads in two or more colours with attractive meenakari work that further brightens the patterns
Swarnachari (baluchari in gold): They are the most gorgeous balucharis, woven with gold (Swarna) or silver coloured threads (often with meenakari work in another colour), which is called Zari. That illuminate the patterns to a much larger extent.
3. Dhakai Jamdani Saree: The Dhakai Jamdani saree is a remarkable masterpiece known for its exquisite weaving technique and one of the most popular Bengal handloom sarees. The sheerness, and lightweight cloth with intricate designs give it an ethereal appearance.
4. Bishnupur: Native to the West Bengal region, Bishnupur silk stands out for its soft, smooth feel. They’re particularly popular with sarees as the fabric falls beautifully and allows for fuss-free draping. You’ll find Bishnupur silk sarees in a number of different colours as well as use for various heritage weaves such as Kantha. Lightweight and yet elegant, a Bishnupur silk saree will never fail you!
CHHATTISGARH
Chhattisgarh handloom textiles and sarees are a symbol of traditional beauty and craftsmanship.
These sarees are made from Kosa or Tussar silk, cotton, and linen, known for their deep golden color and superior texture. Each saree is a work of art, crafted with unique painting techniques such as block batik and dabu, and decorated with tribal paintings of nature, animals, and figures.
Made using organic dyes, Chhattisgarh handloom sarees are not only stylish but also environmentally conscious. Celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Jharkhand with these beautifully crafted handloom textiles and sarees.
MADHYA PRADESH
1. Chanderi saree: Chanderi saree is a traditional saree made in Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh), produced from pure silk, chanderi cotton and silk cotton. Chanderi saree are also known for gold and silver brocade.
2. Maheshwari: sari Maheshwari silk is a unique blend of Mysore silk and cotton, originating from the town of Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh, India, while Chanderi is another traditional Indian fabric known for its sheer texture and light weight.
From its point of origin in the 1700s to its present-day existence - the elegant Maheshwari silk has had a long run and will persist to. With the Rehwa Society’s continued support, it is assured that the textile’s unique antiquity and texture will be around for centuries to come. The organization has also encouraged its weavers to work on dupattas, shawls, salwar suits, shirts, curtains, and pillow covers, along with sarees to add variety to their collections.
3. Baghprint: exquisite Bagh Print on Handwoven Maheshwari Silk Cotton Saree, a timeless masterpiece that beautifully combines tradition and elegance. This stunning red saree is a true embodiment of the rich cultural heritage of India, showcasing intricate Bagh block printing techniques on the finest handwoven Maheshwari silk cotton fabric. The saree features a mesmerizing interplay of traditional Bagh motifs and contemporary design elements. The Bagh print is renowned for its intricate geometric designs.
4. Tussar sarees: Tussar silk produced in Madhya Pradesh, is known by its Sanskrit name 'kosa'. Raigarh and Champa are important centres for tussar silk sarees and fabrics, where the weaving is done by the Devangan community. These sarees radiate a natural brilliance due to the fibre used.
